Home made dwida…..gritliya ……..another Algerian pasta

To continue my series of posts about Algerian homemade pasta, I ‘d like to shed the light on one of the finest and most difficult  pasta dishes that combine both  othoman heritage  and the amazigh /berber cooking methods ….

the dwida or gritliya as it’s known in my hometown, is a a type of pasta , found only in the Northen cities of Algeria famous with their othoman heritage like Annaba, constantine, Algiers…….etc…….but while the pasta preparation itself is probably Turkish influenced , the method of cooking the dish is typically berber.

 Steaming is an essenciel technique in North African cuisine and a huge number of traditional dishes fall into this category

In fact, the differences between North African and Middleasten cuisine is not solely starch based ( rice versus couscous ) but goes beyond that. North African cuisine with its Berber roots is based around slow cooking  using clay cookwares that  provide moisture and develops flavors to the stews as well as steaming   that allow two dishes to be cooked over the same source of heat.

Dwida or Gritliya is a typical example of how Algerian women fused foreign inherited dishes ( othoman in this case) and giving them a local touches through the steaming technique….

the preparation of the pasta is really hard and time consuming , you need years of watching and exercising to get the right gestures .

to prepare the dough, fine semoulina is gradually mixed with water and kneaded then left to rest for few hours , it is then cut into small balls, and each ball  shaped into  long , extremely thin cords , that would be squeezed  between the tumb and the index.     short, 5 cm long vermicellis are then formed and   left to dry on traditional sieves before   getting  stored.

the following are pictures of the dwida- making – process  ,kindly sent to me  by  my friend  Merry of cuisinetestee’.( Merci merry pour ces precieuses photos qui ont honore’ mon  post. )

you can see  how the dwida is being  shaped and left to dry on the traditional Algerian sieve called gherbal or siyar.

In the past,each summer , during the hot sunny days of August, Algerian women would gather and prepare big amount of different types of traditional pastas called el 3oula or el mouna ……. couscous, trida, mhamsa ( berkoukes/aich) dwida, etc………are prepared for the whole year in a very friendly and joyous atmosphere, women would sing, lough , gossip, share their marital stories or problems, while rolling a grain of couscous or cutting a square of trida…..a true sens of mutual help and fraternity framed by a typical Algerian sociological phenomenon called TWIZA .

because the homemade vermicelli is not begginer friendly, you can replace it by the industrial pasta even if you would miss the authentic taste.

Here are some pictures of dwida prepared with industrial vermicelli pasta.  I grilled half the  vermicelli on a dry frying pan until they got this goldren brown colour and mixed them with the rest of the paquet  to get bicoloured pasta.

 

ALGERIAN DWIDA/GRITLYA:
 
Ingredients :1/2 kg lamb meat or few pieces of chicken
500g fresh home or ready made vermicelli pasta
2 tablespoons smen (clarified butter/ghee).
1 finely chopped big sized onion
1 cup chickpeas (soaked over night )
salt to taste
1tsp black pepper
1tbsp cinnamon
safran or 1tsp of turmeric for a golden colour ( optional)For Decoration :
2 or 3 boiled eggs quatered
small meat balls seasoned and cooked in the broth.

traditionnally, we prepare this type of the steamed pasta in the couscous pot, called keskas, the broth in the lower part of the pot and the pasta in the upper part so it gets all the aromas coming out from the broth.

over low heat, place the meat in the lower port of the couscous pot, brown it with the onion, ghee and species , stir continuesly, add the chickpeas and one cup of hot water. give it a few boils then pour 1 and 1/2 L hot water. let it simmer over medium heat.
once the steam rises from the pot. add 1 or 2 drops of oil to the pasta, mix well so it gets coated evenly, and place it on the upper part of the couscous pot , just over the meat broth. let it steam for about 30 to 45 mn.
take down the upper part of the pot, and put the pasta in a deep wooden plate called « gasaa » . add some salt and pepper, and slowly sprinkle over one cup of cold water . let the pasta absorb the liquid. mix well with the tip of your fingers and return pasta to steamer and let it steam for another 30 minutes. return the pasta to the gasaa or the deep plate , with a laddle, scoop the top layer of the meat broth and pour it over the pasta . you may need two or three unfull ladlles. mix well , let the pasta absorb the broth and return it once again to the steamer.
you may need to steam it for a fourth time but if the pasta is well steamed , 3 times should be more than enough. a fresh homemade pasta takes shorter time to get tender.

check the broth. if the meat and the chickpeas are done, before the pasta gets tender. remove them, cover and set aside.

when the pasta is cooked, pour it in a cooking pot , cover it with the meat broth, and let it absorb it over very low heat. i personally prefer to sprad the pasta in a gratin like dish, pour the meat broth , cover it with aluminum foil and place it in the over for 15mn to 20 mn until the pasta absorbs all the broth.

once the pasta is well done. return it to a deep plate, check the seasoning, add some salt and cinnamon powder if required then a knob of butter, mix well. spread the pasta in a deep traditional serving plate , spoon the chickpean in the centre, arrange the meat , boiled eggs and meatballs around .


RECETTE EN FRANCAIS:

Ingredients :

1/2 kg d’ agneau ou bien quelques morceaux de poulet
1 grand oignon emince’
smen/beurre
une petite tasse de  de pois chiche trompe’ la veille
se, poivre, cannelle, curcuma/safran
faire revenir la viande avec le smen et les epices, ajouter les pois-chiche puis couvrir avec un litre et demi d’eau .laisser cuire.
entre temps, prendre le paquet de vermicelle ,l’enduire avec un peu d’huile pour que ca ne cole pas pd le passage a la vapeur. mettre dans le haut du couscoussier et laisser 30 a 45  mn environ, verser dans une jatte, saler,poivrer et asperger d’un peu d’eau chaude .laisser absorber puis remettre a cuire une 2ieme fois . reverser dans la jatte, verser dessus, 2 ou 3 louches de sauce,laisser absorber et mettre a cuire une 3ieme fois. si la dwida n’est pas encore tendre, repasser a la vapeur pour la quatrieme fois.
apres mettre la dwida, maintenant tendre, dans une marmite, verser dessus la sauce, debarasse’ de viande et de pois chiche. qui doit seulement couvrir la pate,augmenter le feu au depart, puis diminuer a fond et laisser absorber a feu tres deux. 
gouter la pate, rectifier l’assaisonement ou ajouter plus de sauce si necessaire. a la fin mettre une noisette de beurre dans la pate, decorer avec la viande et les pois chiche au milieu, on peut ajouter des oeufs durs et des boulettes de viande hachee’ qu’on jete dans la sauce de cuisson. 
BESEHAAAAAAAA 

 
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How to make traditional Algerian pasta /trida ….Fabrication de la pate a trida

As I said in a former post, Algerian cuisine has a big range of typically Algerian  pasta that plays the role of rice in other countries .  these dishes are so numerous that I am going to devote a separate category to detail them..

Algerian pasta dishes are very different from the Italian versions. the pasta is made out of semolina then shaped into numerous  ways according to  different regions .  almost every province has its own speciality.

To prepare these dishes, meat ( chicken or lamb) are simmered in an aromatic broth along chickpeas and some vegetables, pasta is steamed couscous- style, then put to absorb the former broth before being served hot with chickpeas on top, and meat , vegetables  around the outer rim.

Today, I am going to show you how to prepare the trida or mkartfa pasta, a speciality of the eastern part of the country. . hope my photos will contribute in shedding more lights onto this delicious dish .

I’ll post the recipe of the dish in a separate article, in the meantime, you can find it detailed in my french blog (clic)

Ingredients:

300g of fine semolina ( mine was a bit coarse, as it’s difficult to find good quality  semolina, here in Asia)

200g of all purporse flour

a pinch of salt

1 egg

enough water to blend all the above ingredients

Procedure:

Mix the two flours, make a well in the center, incorporate   salt and egg into the well. use your fingertips to blend the mixture together , adding water each time until the dough is well combined and a smooth dough is formed. knead the dough for 7 to 10 km without tearing it, pushing the dough with the palm of your hand each time. cut it into equal sized balls. deep each ball in cornstarch  , cover and let them rest for half a day. the more they rest, the more they will be more easily worked with.

At this time, you need a pasta machine to help you roll the dough as thinly as possible. if not a rolling pin will work just fine.

with a rolling pin, flatten your pasta ball, as thin as possible  making sure it is not wider than the slot of the pasta  machine. pass the dough on the different slots of the machine, starting by the widest  to the smallest one without skipping the numbers to avoid jamming the machine and tearing the pasta. sprinkle every sheet of pasta with cornstarch. . now that your dough is very thin, let it dry for 15 to 20 minutes until the sheets are dry enough to be cut without having the pasta squares stuck to each other .

superpose the pasta sheets, trim the edges and cut them into strips of  4/5cm large, then into small squares.let them dry for one entire day before cooking or freezing them.

Alternatively, if you don’t have a pasta machine,roll your pasta sheet very thinly then cut it into strips like we do for the fresh italian tagliatelle, only that the trida strips should be larger  Cut s  into small squares

 Francais:

300g de semoule fine de bonne qualite’ . 200g de farine,( ou bien 500g de semouline) un oeuf ‘, sel, et eau pour ramaser.

mettre tous les ingrédients ensemble , pétrir ,( ds un robot / une map,) sinon a a la main sans dechirer la pate . partager en boules egales, saupoudrer de maizena couvrir et laisser quelques heures, ou une demi journee’ si vous le pouvez.

etaler les boules au rouleau puis les passer a la machine pour avoir de fines bandes , je ne donne pas les numeros qu’il faut utiliser puisque ca differe selon les marques des machines, mais faite en sorte que votre pate soit fine sans oublier de les saupoudrer de maizena pour qu’elles ne colent pas a la machine.
Laisser secher 15 a20 mn selon le climat. les bandes ne doivent etre ni trop seches pour qu’elles ne se cassent pas, ni trop fraiches sinon vous aurrez des difficultes a separer les cares. saupoudrer les bandes de maizena , les surperposer egaliser la bordure , couper en bandelettes de 4 a 5 cm de largeur puis en petits carres. laisser secher une journee’ sur un drap propre . le lendemain preparer le plat selon la methode traditionnelle.ou bien mettre au congelateur.

si vous n’avez pas de machine, vous pouvez proceder comme la recette des tagliatelle Italiennes, avec quelques details pres. etaler la pate en un fin rouleau , rouler le sur lui meme  , puis couper des bandelettes qui doivent etre plus larges que les taglietelle puis chaque bandes en petits carres

Enjoy/ Beseha

more photos of the same dish :